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header image credits: maurizio cattelan live donkey 2016 at frieze art fair
collage image credits: on request by e-mail
Ai Ai
THE ALCHEMY OF VEGETAL INDIGO DYE
What is behind the magic blue fascinating so many people ? All the variations of blue coming all from one source, the indigo plant. After having almost disappeared through the domination of the market of its chemical adversary, it is now the moment where the original dyeing procedures have their revival.
Today we get more and more conscious about the side effects of the accelerated production methods and the impact on our environment, anybody involved in the chain of production as also on us, the consumers or the fashion professionals.
The grown awareness for what we do to us we should want for everybody and everything that is surrounding us. Why should we wear some garments that actually are highly aggressive to our skin and that all contact during the dyeing process is cancergenic ?
Alongside the tendency for getting closer to natural forms and traditional ways i.e. favoring of organic fabrics (a polemic topic), re-editions of original models, and growing numbers of craftsmanship brands throughtout the industries, and collections being inspired by traditional workwear, all those signs are marking
Denim as most recent and older representatives of the habitual workwear wardrobe in past times, the blue played a significant role. Today it is the indigo the color which so much appreciated at the same time not recognized in its value.
Real indigo being a product of vegetal dyeing requires time and experienced hands to create the high-value of not bleeding out color and unique shades of blue – like in the traditional Japanese spectrum is defining twelve shades of blue – from the lightest « blue that does not exist » to the most profound « divan » .
Not only to be applied on textiles but also being a pigment to dye and natural materials like ceramics, woods, leather and any other natural fibers opening its doors to the blue universe to many fields. A lot of Ai Ai – in Japanese standing for indigo and love – to be expected in near future.
Coming back to methods which are maybe more time intensive but with a lot of care and empathy for us and nature. At the same time many other vegetal dyeing methods are receiving more attention enabling to have appropriate solutions to dye textiles and showing us the beauty of the alchemy of those techniques.
Color is more than a brush of paint, its a cure for the fabric and our skins with bringing along pharmaceutical effects and medical components. Certain factors we forgot about over the years and now being discovered again. Traditional ways are not about nostalgia or a old fashioned spirit, it is about understanding the source of quality and to use the savoir-faire from the past and combining it with our current possibilities for a future bright as the indigo blue.
Definitively, indigo is more than a color.
"While Africa can’t yet compete with mature markets in terms of manufacturing on a large scale, it can shine by elevating its vast artisanal heritage to develop a fresh approach to handmade craftsmanship for discerning consumers worldwide."
— Helen Jennings for BoF, author of 'New African Fashion'.
Paris — 27th of May 2016
Round Table #01 by THE FUTURE OF MATERIALISM
INTRODUCTION
Africa, the rising continent spreads out significant impact on the industry, now and in future.
Many countries show, among other positive indicators, remarkably growing real GDP rates
for 2016, as i.e. Ivory Coast 8.5%, Tanzania 6.9%, Senegal 6.6%, Djibouti 6,5%, so the predictions by IMF.
Thereafter also to the booming but slowed down Luxury industry, emphasizes on the new, complementary
growth territory, entering the new markets on the African continent carefully but decisively, seeking after
securing their position through opening stores.The upwards tendency of the region is reflected by Euromonitor
International, predicting the highest growth rates in luxury goods consumption for Africa and the Middle East.
Thus, ‘Luxury’ and ‘Africa’ are inseparably connected. But, what do the two words together evoke? What about
a Luxury industry ‘Made In Africa’? How to define an ‘African Luxury’? And, how to enhance and promote it? Is
the industry and are the consumers ready for ‘Luxury Made in Africa’?
This round table is accompanying the exhibition and event «Boubou Kimono – A Dialogue in Indigo», revealing the
high know-how behind the deep-rooted textile heritage which Indigo represents. Its natural scarcity and the slow
making process evoke the similarity to the processes of any of the prestigious Luxury and Fashion Houses.
The precious and scarce matter fulfill the role of a door opener, and as key to this talk, enabling to excerpt
the potential of 'Africa' for the global fashion and luxury industry. With this round table we aim to awake
consciousness for the rising continent, revealing its Luxury potential. A rising continent to be explored
as market but in particular as manufacturer for Luxury ‘Made in Africa’.
—
A PROFESIONAL PUBLIC, A COLLECTIVE VISION
This round table is addressing only to industry's professionals in order to augment the impact of this meeting.
As valuable as matter, to connect the impactful players is indispensable. We give an impulse by inviting
bridge-builders, to hold a strategic talk to lightening perspectives for future approaches towards marketing,
sourcing and creativity.
This reunion shall lead to synthesize the experiences, reflections and ideas of the actors involved, developing
together a vision of the future of Luxury. We hope that through this kind of exchange, fresh contents, new
strategies and innovative products will bring the industry to bloom.
KONATÉ.TÓTH